Costa Brava - The Wild Coast

Over the past 20 years when we visited my (Aaron's) parents we discovered many beautiful places in the region of Catalonia. Here you can follow the highlights and some of our favourite places of the Costa Brava which means the "Wild Coast": 

Torre Colomina - San Antoni

Starting at the far north close to the border to France, where the Pyrenees mountains touch the sea, lies the beautiful nature park of Cap de Creus. The nature here is absolutely stunning. There's a lighthouse from where you can enjoy a great view along the coast and rugged area around you. The whole area reminded Clare of parts of beautiful Australia.

Not far away is lovely Cadaqués with its white houses and located within a gorgeous bay. There is a much different vibe here, compared to the area further south. It's so beautiful and peaceful just strolling along the waterfront enjoying the views. Nearby in Portlligat is where the famous artist Salvador Dali spent his later years. The most easterly point of Spain is definitely a wonderful area to spend your life. 

Further south beyond the hills lies the city of Figueres where you can find the fabulous Dali museum with its many huge eggs on top of the roof. Continue back towards the sea and you will reach the wetlands of Aiguamolls de l’Empordà with a great variety of bird life. There are seven hides and a tower for bird watchers. Just south of the wetlands are the Greek and Roman archaeological site of Empuries. The Greek town was founded around 575 BC and the Romans too, liked the location with its natural harbour - the perfect spot for a trading and market place. Today the area around L' Escala is a popular beach and holiday destination. 

If you are looking for charming Medieval towns head a bit inland: A must-do stop is Pals set on a hill. We've visited the place surrounded by rice fields many times and always liked the narrow streets with the old stone houses. The panoramic view on top of the hill is also worth the climb. Another Medieval town is Peratallada which lies just west of Pals. Both places are among the best preserved historical places on the Costa Brava and are very popular among tourists. If you want your peace and quiet try to get there off-season or early in the mornings.

One of our favourite lunch places is in a bay nearby Begur called Sa Tuna. But remember to reserve in advance otherwise you won’t get a table. From here the coast gets rugged and wild. The best way to explore the area is on foot taking the seaside paths called Camino de Ronda. A good source of information on these hikes is found here. If you only want to do a short hike then I can recommend the round trip along the coast from La Fosca to beautiful Platja de Castell with lunch at the beach restaurant.

There's a short walk through pine forrest to the ruins of the former castle with the view above and to the Barraca d’en Dali. This house was built for Dali in the 50’s and the doorframe was built at a 40° angle to reflect Dali’s style. 

There are many picturesque bays surrounded by hills between Begur and Palamos. Get up early in the morning to enjoy the sunrise from the lighthouse Sant Sebastià, starting from the nearby El Far Hotel (which has a Japanese restaurant). The view down to the towns of Llafranc and Callela de Parafrugell is really spectacular. 

We don’t mind getting up early as this is the best time to enjoy the best light for taking photos. And so often you have the place to yourself. On a previous trip we drove to Callela de Parafrugell to enjoy this misty sunrise at the end of January.

Calonge is the place where my parents moved from Switzerland to Spain to spend their early retirement. From their place on the hill called Cabanyes you have a wonderful view to Palamos.

Further up lies Romanyà de la Selva with our favourite fine-dining restaurant Can Roquet. A reservation is recommended. Sant Antoni is the seafront location of Calonge with a great wide beach. From here towards Platja d’Aro there is a walking path along the coast with many little bays.  At one point there is a lovely coastal view of the Torre Colomina - that guards the land (see top picture).

Leaving Sant Feliu, the road becomes bendy with lots of curves. There are several viewpoints or "mirador" along the road giving you a good impression of the beauty and scenery. You can find many paths leading down to the bays, but parking is very limited so you either need to walk or take a boat.

Tossa de Mar is a very interesting historical town to visit right on the coast. It’s the only fortified medieval town on the Catalan coast which is still standing. From the beach you can book boat trips to the bays. The old town, with many shops and restaurants, is certainly a highlight and also the view from the path behind the towers is spectacular. 

If you prefer less history but more party and beach life, Lloret de Mar - together with Platja d’Aro, and Roses - are the right destinations. Here you will find entertainment all day and night! There is a lovely walk along the coast and at the observation point Dona Marinera I found a great photo location with Lloret’s main beach in the background. Not far from here is the Cala Bays Bar and Restaurant in a truly gorgeous location. This place would definitely be extremely popular in high-season!

The Costa Brava ends at Blanes - the third biggest city in the province of Girona. The city itself is not as pretty as others mentioned in this blog. But, the view from the Castell de Sant Joan de Blanes through the gate where you can see the city and its Sa Palomera rock, is definitely worth a visit.   

For over 20 years Clare and I enjoyed many trips to the Costa Brava to visit Aaron's parents. We were lucky to travel off-season and therefore able to really experience and enjoy the beauty, ruggedness and peacefulness of this Wild Coast.  

Here are our other blogs covering Spain (with links):

Part 1: Barcelona

Part 2: Costa Brava

Part 3: Catalonia (coming soon)

In 2020, global tourism suddenly stopped due to the virus. Spain was hit especially hard and the mandatory quarantine for returning travellers made international tourists disappear.  My lovely Mum sadly passed away in August from her long suffering of illness. In loving memory of her, these pictures were taken two years ago on her 80th birthday:

"One crowded hour of glorious life is worth an age without a name"

(The Call - Thomas Osbert Morsdaunt, 1730-1809)

Travel blog and travel guide by Aaron Matzinger & Clare Walker

© Aaron Matzinger & Clare Walker